The great pyramid passages and chambers

372 Proceeding on our way through the city eastward, we were soon outside St. Stephen’s Gate (Plate LXXXVII), and saw in front of us on the other side of the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the lofty Mount of Olives, with the Garden of Gethsemane at its base. To the right of us was Mount Moriah, the scene of the sacrifice of Isaac, and later the site of Solomon’s Temple, the glory of Jerusalem. All this place must now present a very different aspect from that which it had in our Lord’s day. At that time Herod’s Temple must have presented a magnificent sight, when viewed from the Mount of Olives. The Mosque of Omar now occupies the same locality.

373 We walked from St. Stephen’s Gate down to the road which runs along the driedup bed of the brook Kedron in the Valley of Jehoshaphat. After standing at the junction of the roads for awhile, admiring the beautiful scene, we returned to our hotel by way of the road which runs round the city walls to the north—Plate LKXXV. On our road we passed two parties of Americans, who live in a group of buildings to the north of the city, called the American Colony. They are the followers of a man who, I understand, claims to be Elijah.

Thursday, 1st July. Ever since Stanley took ill, we have had a nurse from the London Jewish Mission Hospital in attendance during the night, and for the first two days another during the day also. Canon Carnegie Brown is very kindly supplying us with fresh milk for Stanley’s use.

375 This morning at ten o'clock, John, Grace, Jack and I drove for an hour and a half, partly round the road which Jack and I traversed yesterday. This is John’s first outing since our walk to the Holy Sepulchre on Sunday morning.

Friday, 2nd July, 4 p.m. This morning, John, Jack and I drove to Bethlehem. We started at 8 a.m., when it was cool. John enjoyed the drive very much, after his short but severe illness. Mr. Anis Jamal accompanied us, and explained everything far better than any official “‘dragoman"’ could have done. We required to use smoked glasses, as the glare of the sun on the white road and on our own white clothes, is very trying to the eyes. We do not like using dark glasses, for they spoil the view. Latterly we tried placing them further down to cut off the white light from below, and looked over the top, and we found that this answered splendidly.

377 Mr. Jamal says that the women of Bethlehem have the reputation of being the most beautiful in Palestine. The inhabitants of this town are said to be descendants of the Crusaders. On our road we passed an ancient well, where we saw three women washing clothes. Their washing was spread on a flat stone, and the women were busy beating it with a club, now and again stopping to turn the garment and sprinkle it with water. On another occasion we saw stones used instead of clubs.

378 We passed Rachel's tomb, a small ruined mosque situated on the roadside. We are told that, at a certain time every year, letters from all parts of the world are written to Rachel, telling her about the ailments of the writers, and begging her to make them whole. These letters are thrown into the tomb through the window-openings, and during the night they disappear. Rachel is supposed to have read them. In reality, the care-taker sees to it that they are destroyed. If one should remain, it is believed, nevertheless, that Rachel has read it, but has left it for some purpose. Tourists some-

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